Buildings cling precariously to the mountainside. Old storefronts and slanted houses seem held together by a lattice of staircases. A bustling waterfront dominates the town.
This is Juneau, Alaska's incredibly scenic capital city. And as capital cities go, it's not very big, but Juneau's not only magnificent, it's full of surprises.
Bounded by steep verdant mountains and surrounded by water, Alaska's third largest city can only be reached by boat or airplane. Doing our homework before our Celebrity cruise gave us a pretty good notion of what to expect in Juneau.
But it wasn't until we spent the day adventuring and exploring this magical wonderland that we understood why so many travelers love it here and come back for more.
Fascinating History
One of the reasons Juneau possesses so much character is that it's one of Alaska's oldest cities.
The region was inhabited by the Auke and Taku tribes for thousands of years-long before the European settlement of the Americas.
Juneau was established even before the big Alaskan Klondike Gold Rush of 1898. 18 years earlier, in 1880, a local Tlingit Indian chief led prospectors to what later became known as Gold Creek, where the two men discovered nuggets of the precious metal.
Soon after, a town site was established, making Juneau the first U.S. city founded after the "Seward's Folly" purchase from Russia.
In 1906, Juneau became Alaska's territorial capital, then its state capital in 1959.
The Alaska State Museum, founded in 1900 has been entrusted with the task of collecting and preserving the region's ancient archaeological artifacts. Native American displays, paintings, sculptures, early aviation and even a natural history section all tell the fascinating history of America's 49th state.
Lively Waterfront and Downtown
Juneau's waterfront literally bristles with the activity. Cruise ships and fishing boats line the piers and floatplanes buzz in and out of the harbor. A stroll along the wharf leads to The Alaska Commercial Fishermen's Memorial, a tribute to the men and women who lost their lives plying the dangerous trade of the Alaskan fishing industry.
Historic downtown is a mere stroll from the pier. The compact easily walkable area sports a maze of narrow streets lined with a mix of old storefronts and quaint structures. Klondike-era hotels and saloons, "onion-dome" churches, and 18th century colorful Victorian homes here make Juneau feel like a museum itself.
Tour a Historic Gold Mine
Donning hard hats and heading underground, we gained a glimpse of a miner's work day at the AJ Mine Gastineau Mill. This complex was at one time the largest gold-producing mill in the world. Tours are led by real miners and though we've taken mine tours at other destinations, this one is by far the most informative and educational of all.
Functioning mining machinery is demonstrated live as we meandered our way through the 360-foot tunnel. At the end of the tour, we were able to wander among the artifacts and authentic mine equipment displayed on site.
For the kiddos and big kids at heart, the mill offers gold and garnet panning. Any findings can be taken home in a souvenir vial.
Drive-Up Glacier
Juneau's best attraction is without a doubt, Mendenhall Glacier, situated just a few miles north of downtown. Here Alaska's largest and most accessible glacier provides one incredible jaw-dropping experience.
The impressive bluish-white glacier spanning 120 miles is fed by the massive Juneau Icefield. In summer, it's common to see huge chunks of ice calving into the small lake dotted with icebergs as the tongue of the glacier laps at the water's edge. 180-degree views can be seen from higher up in the nearby visitor center.
Nature trails along Mendenhall Lake pass picturesque Nugget Creek leading to the thunderous tumult of the cascading, awe-inspiring Nugget Falls.
Though most visitors head straight to the glacier, a stop in the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center is a must. U.S. Forest Service Rangers provide invaluable information about the area. A 15-minute film features the dynamic interplay between the Tongass National Forest and its many glaciers.
Whale Watching
If the Mendenhall Glacier is Juneau's top attraction, whale watching has to be a close second.
We had no doubt we'd see whales. And Alaska Shore Tours guaranteed it. What we didn't expect was an academy award-winning performance!
Summer is the ideal time for whale-watching as the southeastern waters of Alaska are teeming with humpback whales that have migrated north to feed on herring and other fish.
Early on we were visited by a small pod of Orcas. But the real excitement began an hour into our two-hour trip when the Captain slowed the boat announcing whales on the starboard side. Two tails appeared out of the water. More arrived, and the humpback frenzy began.
The whales formed a bubble net, a highly successful method of catching prey. One group dove under a large herring school herding them into a tight ball. One whale then released a powerful ring of bubbles through its blowhole as it circled beneath the prey.
Bubbles rising to the surface created a physical barrier as the whales dove underneath the ring. Then as a group they rose upward, mouths open with heads broaching the surface as they began swallowing the fish. It must have been our lucky day as the boat captain proclaimed this was the best and closest bubble net he'd ever witnessed.
To say we were completely satisfied with the whale-watching experience is putting it mildly. We were euphoric. Juneau goes to the very top of the list.
As icing on the cake, we were treated to a cornucopia of wildlife on the way back viewing seals, sea lions, bald eagles, and a pair of black bear.
Mount Roberts Tramway
We waited until the afternoon for the marine layer to burn off and then headed to the Mount Roberts Tramway, the only tramway in Southeast Alaska. Boarding takes place near the cruise ship dock. From there riders are hoisted to an elevation of 2,000-feet providing expansive views of Juneau and Gastineau Channel.
Vistas at the top are stunning, and we loved the Nature Center atop Mount Roberts where Native Alaskan artisans skillfully worked on their traditional arts and crafts.
On the tram ride back to the pier we noted scores of bald eagles hunting overhead, searching for fish along the waterfront, and nesting above in the towering conifers and utility poles. They were everywhere.
Alaskan Cuisine
We love eating salmon at home, but, there's nothing like fresh-caught Alaskan salmon. Friends gave us a restaurant recommendation that proved outstanding.
Twisted Fish Company Alaskan Grill is casual fine-dining on the waterfront with stunning views of the Gastineau Channel and Douglas Island mountains.
Though Twisted Fish specializes in seafood, there are plenty of other choices for landlubbers. And the food here was awesome. Cedar Plank Salmon, a Wild Taku Inlet Salmon filet baked on a cedar plank and served with bourbon-molasses sauce on the side was incredible.
My hubby loved his fresh-caught Halibut and Chips proclaiming it one of the best he's eaten.
We knew our day trip here would only give us a sampling of what Juneau is really all about. To really immerse ourselves in all its majesty we'll have to come back. "And that will be fine" we said as we stood on deck toasting the sunset while we sailed back out to the open sea.
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