Cornwall: The Best of Coastal Britain

Image: Porthcurnick Beach in Cornwall, England (Photo Credit: Scott Hartbeck)

by Scott Hartbeck
Last updated: 8:00 PM ET, Sun February 2, 2025

So you've been to London, bumped fists with Big Ben, watched a Premier League game and witnessed the Changing of the Guard.

You've seen Scotland, from the Royal Mile in Edinburgh to the craggy, whisky-scented glens of the Highlands.

Maybe you've even walked the medieval walls of a cathedral city like York, strolled the graceful boulevards of Bath or got cozy by the fire at a country pub in the Cotswolds or Lake District.?

All these experiences are unbelievable, but you or your clients haven't truly experienced Britain until you've been to the coast. Thousands of miles long, dramatic as can be and within 70 or so from any point on the island, the coast is as quintessentially British as tea and soccer.

The British coast is lined with quaint fishing villages, seaside resorts, breathtaking beaches and a unique way of life. What's more, as a resident here for nearly a decade, I can attest that the seaside and visions of wild stretches of shoreline are so ingrained into the imagination of British people, that visiting it is one of the most "local" things you could ever do while here.?

And nowhere shows off the spirit of Britain's coast like Cornwall. ?

This county in the far southwest of England is rich in history and enjoys a wealth of wide sandy beaches, jagged coastal scenes and fishing villages full of character.?

I recently visited and couldn't have fallen more in love.? It wasn't my first visit, but it was the one that confirmed for me that Cornwall represents the absolute best of coastal Britain.?

The harbor of Padstow in Cornwall, England

Harbor Pub and Pedal-Powered Fun in Padstow

First impressions being as consequential as they are, I always try my best to orchestrate an excellent opening ceremony for my trips, and that's how I found myself standing barefoot in a downright Caribbean combination of soft sand and clear water at Harbour Beach—just outside of Padstow.?

Located on the soft side shores of the River Camel, it’s one of the closest beaches to town. From the beach towel, I gazed out over the water and contemplated the infamous “Doom Bar”, a sandbar that has led to the demise of many a vessel. But not on this day. After a session on the sand and a few splashes in the water, it was time to officially begin the trip by heading into Padstow proper.?

But first I had to go through customs. And by that, I mean checking in at The Old Custom House, a pub & restaurant with rooms and pride of place on Padstow's working harbor.

As the name suggests, this pub with rooms is located in the former Revenue and Customs building, and if you look to the top of the structure, you can still see the door where goods from far and wide were loaded in for surveying.

From the bedroom, I surveyed the fishing boats bobbing up and down in the harbor—enjoying their rest after a shift at sea—and the gulls swooping through the muggy air and knew it would be a special trip.?

At dinner at The Old Custom House, my table was right by the window and I could see the lights around the harbor start to twinkle as the sun faded. My wife and I enjoyed a fantastic meal, with standouts being the Mackerel & Horseradish Rilette, Fish & Chips and a Cajun Chicken Sandwich that seriously wouldn't have been out of place stateside. Pints of Proper Job and Tribute (the flagship beers of legendary Cornish brewery St. Austell) were sipped, as were flutes of special sparkling wine, which served as a bit of foreshadowing for the next day.?

As we finished up and the sky had gone dark outside, a crabbing boat chugged its way back into the harbor under the stars while a street guitarist strummed away on a bench, completing a scene you'd only see in a seaside town.

On day two, we rented bicycles and took to the Camel Trail, a former rail line turned cycling and walking path. The views were invigorating as we pedaled inland toward Camel Valley Vineyards, stopping multiple times along the way for some photos. At the vineyard, we sampled their specialty: sparkling wine produced the traditional way. Camel Valley Vineyards has been making wine here since the 1980s and has picked up multiple awards.

The cycle home was a little merrier after a couple of flutes of bubbles but the highlight for me was when we came through a clearing and the balmy estuary air washed over us, raising the temperatures by a couple of degrees. Or was that just the spirit of Cornwall making itself known??

Camel Estuary, Cornwall, England, Padstow

There's no doubt that Padstow is popular, due in large part to its long-held reputation in Britain as a hub of excellent seafood chefs but like almost anywhere, it's peaceful as can be in the mornings. Each morning, I made it a habit to stroll up the hill to St. Saviour's Point, to enjoy the lovely scene of the estuary before heading back down again.

The town was calm & quiet aside from walkers heading out on the Southwest Coast Path (one of Britain's most famous long distance trails) and the low buzz of locals gathered at Down By The Ferry cafe & shop sipping coffees and swapping stories with their loyal beach dogs at their feet. Don't worry, I'm sure they'll make room for you if you need a perch to sip your coffee like they did for me.?

Dreamy Detour

In between Padstow and our second destination, we took some local advice to find a hidden beach and it turned out to be one of the best decisions of the entire trip. In Cornwall, hidden coves that make you feel like a castaway are a calling card, and this one was straight out of central casting.

After parking in a farmer's field (honestly box for the parking fee, naturally), we walked down some paths and steps to find a stretch of powdery cream-colored sand and crashing waves. We spent a couple of hours here, watching the wild Atlantic waves wash ashore, soaking in the solitude. There was the occasional other coastal path walker or fellow beachgoer who found their way down to the sand, but the sound of the waves meant you couldn't hear a peep, making it feel like you had the entire beach to yourself. ?

Riviera Mood in St. Mawes

St. Mawes, which sits at the tip of the peaceful Roseland Peninsula, was my second stop. If you squint when the sun's out (like it was when I arrived in town), St. Mawes can look a lot like the French Riviera. Or the Adriatic when you spot swimmers diving off docks and rocks, just like they do in Croatia. St. Mawes boasts a castle (built by Henry VIII no less) and a cluster of cute backstreets perfect for wandering, but it's the atmosphere that makes it magical.? ??

Here, I stayed at the Rising Sun, another harborside pub featuring views of the water and the sounds of lapping waves and after check-in, I repaired to the massive front beer garden to sip a pint of Proper Job and soak up the sun as it became quickly apparent that nobody is in a bad mood when they're in St. Mawes.?

You can't come to Cornwall and not take a dip, and while the weather wasn't quite as paradisiacal as it was the afternoon before, the warm & soft post-swim robes that the Rising Sun provided served as the perfect motivator to take a swim in the harbor, where there was a floating pontoon perfect for diving. It was an invigorating start to a day that starred scones, cream & jam by the fireplace and some live music in the pub. What is it about listening to a cover band on vacation that is so fun? ?

For me, one of the highlights of the Rising Sun and its perfect harbor location was the calming presence of the ferry that plies the waters between St. Mawes and Falmouth. At night, I'd look out the window of my room and see it turning the corner to dock in St. Mawes, and somehow, all felt right in the world.?

Last Hurrah at the Hut

If you're going to start a trip in style, then you have to end it with a flourish too, and so before I left Cornwall, I drove a bit out of St. Mawes to?Porthcurnick Beach and the Hidden Hut. As the name would suggest, it's a 'shack' set up on an isolated stretch of shore, and its well known in these parts for serving up wonderful food and drinks. I grabbed a pastry and a coffee and gazed out upon the sea, soaking in the closing minutes of being in Cornwall.?

There's a unique feeling in Cornwall that's hard to explain, but once you go, you'll know. It may be hard to define, but it will easily get under your skin and stay with you long after you leave.

So if you're deciding where to go (or where to send your clients) this summer, consider Cornwall, because I'm telling you, it's simply the best of the British coast.?

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Scott Hartbeck

Editor true scotthartbeck 9309 14744 Born and raised in the USA but now based in the UK, Scott is a Europe travel expert who has been exploring the continent for over 20 years. He specializes in European rail and discovering underrated destinations & experiences