I had always wanted to visit India. I longed to experience its mysticism, learn more about its people and history, and be bedazzled by its brilliant kaleidoscope of colors.

Oh, and I adore Indian food. Relishing it in situ-Nirvana.

When the opportunity arose to journey there with a group of fellow travel professionals, courtesy of newly branded tour operator Vilasa; I was in.

The pampered offspring of Minar Travels (India) Pvt. Ltd., a well-known DMC operating since 1992, Vilasa means luxury in Sanskrit. They get it-including their Sherpa like leader guiding us in and out of the boisterous Indira Gandhi International Airport.

They introduced us to this diverse country via an itinerary known as the Golden Triangle: Delhi, the country's fascinating and frenetic capital; Agra, home of the Taj Mahal; and Jaipur, capital of romantic Rajasthan. The "Triangle" provides an exciting taste of India to those with time restraints. (More time allows for additional destinations and experiences to be woven in: Cooking lessons, yoga and maybe a camel safari.)

Vilasa expertly creates a just-right mix of iconic sightseeing and witnessing the everyday life of India and its people. Our home-hosted dinner-with its discussion of recipes, traditions, classical dancing and arranged marriages-was a trip highlight. Plus, the food-curried goat and a medley of vegetarian dishes-was divine.

Delhi epitomizes this complicated country, its spirituality, poverty, pollution and its grandeur.

Delhi's tumultuous history is seen in monuments (like the towering Red Fort) and striking architecture of the mighty Mughals who ruled during the 16th and 17th centuries, consolidating Islam and bringing tolerance, art and culture. Must-sees include the Mughal Emperor Humayun's Tomb. Ensconced in an oasis-like park, it inspired the Taj Mahal. The Arc-de-Triumph-like India Gate pays tribute to the soldiers who gave their lives.

New Delhi's Colonial architecture and wide boulevards-courtesy of the 300 years of the British Raj-contrasts with Old Delhi's warren of narrow streets and alleys. The simplest monument, Raj Ghat, fittingly honors Mahatma Gandhi while myriad museums chronicle India's pre-and-post independence in 1947.

One morning, Roman, our guide, whistled up several rickshaws (pedicabs) for a tour of Chandni Chowk, where chaos meets commerce. This centuries-old bazar-a-palooza is a labyrinth crammed with shops and stalls themed by location. Merchants hawk everything from washing machines to wedding gowns. Women clad in jewel-color saris and black-as-night burkas happily haggle for produce and whatnot.

Chandni Chowk boasts a legendary street-food scene-the smells here are as amazing as the sights. Monkeys swing from the rooftops between spiderwebs of hanging electrical wires while porters below navigate heavily laden bikes and pushcarts amidst horn-honking scooters, hordes of pedestrians and the odd lowing cow.

Off Jaipur's beaten-track, Vilasa booked us into the Samode Palace-a destination itself worthy of a visit. A 400 plus-year-old home of a noble family, it is now classified as one of India's Heritage Hotels. (Every visit should include a stay at one of these properties.)

Luxurious, sensuous and enchanting, it sits above a step-back-in-time walled village of Samode.

We wandered down late afternoon and were greeted by the cutest, shyly smiling children and friendly villagers. To our surprise, there was also a passel of pigs who paraded about, sticking their snouts wherever they pleased. They had clearly won the turf war with the sacred cows and the dogs.

Oh, those sad-looking dogs-right out of central casting for one of those Sarah McLachlan ASPCA ads.

Villagers included those seeking a gig as an ad-hock guide and entreaties to buy bangles and visit uncles' art studios and such, but that's OK. Strolling along, we poked in shops as my guide pointed out spots of interest, his brother's brightly painted house, the school and the house where the pigs live.

Transfixed, in front of a once elegant, now haunted-looking house-say, if the Addams family had poor relations-an enormous black pig emerged. He cast a disdainful look at me and two nearby dogs, then sauntered down the overgrown path. Amazing. Loved Samode.

Later, back up at the Palace we wined and dined on the candlelit terrace and retired to our gorgeous rooms like proper nobility and memsahibs. Happily, we had time to loll around the pool, visit the spa and fit in a bit more shopping before heading back to Delhi-and home.

Before you pack up and go to India, remember to leave room in your suitcase for treasures you won't be able to resist.

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